Is This Brooch Vintage? Pt. 2

DISCLAIMER: Dating a vintage brooch without an ad is subjective and not everyone comes up with the exact same date. The dates I give below are determined through research and, my own interpretation of the costume jewelry eras. You may not agree with my findings. If you have, or are about to buy, an expensive piece I would urge you to seek a more professional second opinion.

Is This Brooch Vintage? pt. 2, will focus again on the back of your brooch. We can rely a lot on style, thickness, and the brooch's "setting". The setting is the frame that holds your pin attachment. Please note that all of these settings, styles and thicknesses can be made today, so please be cautious when purchasing your piece. Let's begin.
  Antique brooches dating from the 1800's till up to about 1920, generally had just a pin that ran across the top and settled into a C-clasp. Earlier versions included a thin wire or thicker metal C. Victorian Era pins extended past the brooch itself in most cases. Wide C's which included a wider metal for the pin to go into were more popular from the 1920's on. The pieces were made of different metals with, and without, enameling. They also came with or without stones for adornment. They also had a somewhat "heavier feel". The metal was almost always a silver tone, gold tone, or grey. Better pieces were made of gold or silver and could be adorned with stones. Occasionally, average pieces were painted on the back to mask the fact they were a combination of metals. You are more likely than not to find some wear, heavy patina, or discoloration, including paint and enamelling loss. See some examples below:

  The 1920's jewelry can often be found in a thicker metal. They may be plain, painted, or enameled. Bejeweled with stones, or not. Their closures included spin closures with small nubs on the spin "heads" and, a very few dying out C clasp closures. Example below:

  The 1930's-1940's jewelry backings (with some exceptions) were often adorned with filigree, as well as faux filigree, on both the front and back. True filigree was made with single wires and woven or formed into the jewelry piece. You are more likely to find "faux (or false) filigree" made to look like wire. Ornate styles were becoming more complex in their structure due to machinery. It was now the norm, rather than the exception. Rivets were being used to layer the fronts onto the backs more commonly, again, with a pin across the back which now includes a spin clasp closure. The pins often had a rivet to hold them on as pictured below. The pieces were of varying sizes and the metal was general thinner than in the previous eras. Pieces from the 30's to 40's will have a very ornate look and will be a bit thinner than previous pieces. The debate on rivets generally assumes these pieces to be later, say, the 50's-60's. My research shows rivets have been around since somewhere around the Roman Era so, I do not hold water with those conclusions. See examples below:

   The 1950's and 1960's jewelry did change as the manufacturing processes became more industrialized and, thus better equipped to handle more complex as well as cheaper manufacturing. One mentionable addition to the 1950's jewelry trade was the introduction of the first Aurora Borealis stone. Contrary to popular belief, the first Borealis stones were golden in color. Nearly all 1950's/60's brooches will have a V or curved Pin setting as shown below.

It wasn't until the 1960's that AB stones became a standard in popular jewelry in North America. A few examples below:

1970's jewelry, for whatever reason, again became made of  thicker metal. Maybe it was the influx of foreign manufacturing practices. In either case, heavier set jewelry in base metals became the norm. Whether this was due to the as foreign imports or, the home made manufacturing trend, it is unclear. Some examples below:
The 1980's began again with a lighter metal and generally plated with a thin coating to look shiny yet save on costs. Very shiny, very "anything goes" kind of look. These pieces were generally mass produced and were becoming so inexpensive, they were almost known as "wear and toss pieces". It seemed the uniqueness we knew had been so mass produced at this point that jewelry no longer became pieces to be cherished. What vendors sold by horse and buggy was now available at your local corner store. The distance no longer kept jewelry pieces in the heirloom range. After all, they were now readily available to all. Heirloom jewelry is now considered to be "expensive made to order pieces" consisting of precious metal and stones.

Finger Prong, Flip Clip, Clipback Cufflinks. How To Wear Finger Prong Cufflinks.

Today I will discuss and show you how to wear one the rarest of costume jewelry cufflinks. The "finger prong" "flip clip"or, as I prefer to call them, clipbacks. Let's take a look at these unique cufflinks before we go any further. Here are some of my own finds over the years. They are definitely not an easy find. Scouring the internet, I only see only a few sets for sale. 

      It's hard to pin down much on these little works of art. I know they were mostly made mid to late 1800's. Some were manufactured by the TRADEMARK or TRADE MARK company. I have also found other cufflinks in a bean back style dating to the very early 1900's with the same TRADEMARK or TRADE MARK company stamp. I have purchased examples in Canada as well as the U.S.A. so, again, it is hard to say just where this company had its roots without further digging. I am also in possession of a set stamped IMP Pat Pend. I assumed this stood for Imperial Manufacturing Company but, they did not shorten their name and always used a symbol. Could these be Asian imports. Some type of British Imperial stamps? Still, I haven't seen examples for sale overseas. Below: You can barely see TRADEMARK under the clips. Sometimes, it is printed in two separate words TRADE MARK.

     
      When looking for a stamp on these, it will always be on the back body itself. Sometimes it will give the name only. Sometimes the date only. Sometimes it will show nothing. Occasionally I have also just seen the prong itself stamped so do check as you may actually pin down a date for you cufflink. It's fun to know in case someone asks.

                                                                      1884 Stamp

IMP PAT PEND Stamp

      The next curiosity about these collectible cufflinks is the shape. For some unknown reason, they are nearly always square. They are almost always brass and, they almost always have an ornate frame around them. In all my years of looking for these, I have only found one exception to the rule. A round finger prong set stamped TRADEMARK. The set was a bit much for me to purchase in the day but it would have been a nice rare find. Every part of the cufflink was the same except for the fact it was round instead of square. It also had the 1886 date and, TRADEMARK stamp. What drew me to it other than the fact it was listed as antique? The outside frame. You guessed it, the same design in brass as some of the square ones.

      After you get past the stereotypical square frame that always seems to accompany these, everything changes. Bear in mind these frames can also have no surround with just a flat surface (especially the round examples). Most frames will be a bit recessed in order to accept a small square insert. These were generally made of glass, or stone. Ones with flat tops (no recesses) generally had a raised design as do my pick and cart mining cufflinks (below). Still, they also can have inset stones. Others I have seen included flat tops with a fern or flower motif. One of the most elaborate pieces I had missed purchasing featured a spider theme. Indented metal frame with a raised spider complete with wire legs, wire web, and fly. So basically the square shape stays the same while the tops, or inserts, change. If you are really lucky, you find a round one in good condition....

                                -Tips On Purchasing-

      I would like to add a small note on condition. These are very old cufflinks and you will be hard pressed to find a perfect example. So what should you look for when I find a set for sale? My first advice is check those photos closely. Enlarge them. Scrutinize for flaws. Obviously the tops and clips (when in closed position) should be in what you consider wearable condition. That includes dings or dents. Most brass can be cleaned up with metal polish that is available at any grocery store. Make sure you are not allergic prior to use and always wear safety accessories when cleaning. Use cotton swabs or paper towel, as you will use a rag up way too fast. Black tarnish is what should be coming off on your paper towel/cotton swabs. The most important part of these cufflinks are the backs. Make sure they have two clips on the back. You would be surprised at the ones I have seen for sale that had this fatal flaw and I almost didn't even notice. The clips will be either two small clips as seen below or, a small and a large clip (not shown). Point being, there have to be two. Next, are the clips bent? Again, I have seen sets for sale where one clip takes an unnatural turn simply because it has been unintentionally bent over. Imagine trying to get that one bent clip through your cuff's buttonhole, not to mention it will look like $*** as the prongs absolutely show during wear. The cufflink clips do have an intended curve to them but nothing excessive where the clip takes off to the left, right, or is bent in an L shape. Finally, do the clips work. Ask. Absolutely ask before purchasing. Some stickiness/tightness can be common, loose or floppy is not. And remember, both the clips and top will be showing on your shirt. I hope this helps in your selection. Check those photos carefully and enjoy this unusual, classic period, cufflink!

      Enough with touting why I find these "obsessively interesting" and on to the best part. Wearing them. Simple and secure, they make one of the best cufflinks (in my opinion) made in the 1800's. Here we go....

STEP: 1   In the photo below, you can see the cufflink in the closed position. The next photo shows the clips in the raised position (just pull up on the clips). This is the position you will use to put on your finger prong, flip clip, clipback cufflinks.

STEP: 2   Bring all your shirt cuff holes together. Align them so you can slide the prongs straight through all the holes. Make sure the top part of the cufflinks are on outside of your cuff . Left cuff, top is left side. Right cuff, top is right side. You will always slide your prongs in towards your big belly (well, that's how it works for me anyway). Now slide the prong completely through all holes.

STEP: 3   Hold your cufflink top pinched to your cuff so that the prongs are well seated. At this point, you will simply push down on the clips to close them. Loosen the clips a bit if you want to adjust your cufflinks so the top design is where you want it. Reclose prongs. You are now ready to step out and get some compliments. Enjoy those finger prong, flip clip, clipbacks! Now say that three times fast.

   

Did You Realize?

Below is a list of  "Did You Realize" facts.

Did You Realize...

1. Stick pins were advertised to men as a scarf accessory in the 1800's? These very same stick pins were also used on ties. They evolved into the three piece set as well. Stick pin and cufflinks.

2. Woman originally wore their dress clip in the V of their dress?

3. Some mourning jewelry was made from a deceased  loved ones hair in memory?

4. Fur clips have two needle like prongs while dress clips have pointed "teeth".

5. Men's vintage tie clips with chains are worn with the clip inside the shirt, or underside of the tie, while the chain was the only part that was supposed to show on the tie itself.

6. Jet is decayed wood under pressure that has not quite yet become coal. French Jet is made of glass that is made to imitate real Jet. Both were commonly associated with "Mourning" jewelry.

7. The first Borealis stone appeared in the 1950's and was a "golden" colour. More colourful forms that we know as "Aurora Borealis" stones were produced in the 1960's and beyond.

8. Eyeball jewelry was originally worn to ward off the "Evil Eye" curse?

Vintage Cuff Link Parts

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Ah, vintage cuff links. Great little pieces of artwork from the past. Today we look at those little swivel backs that become loose. Ever wonder why. I have. Vintage cuff link parts. They are basically just not fixable by the common man. Jewelers, maybe. The great part about these vintage backs is the fact that even if they no longer stay in the closed position, your button hole will still keep them on. No need to discard them. The chance of them ever falling out is very slim. Just thought I would show you what they are made of. I've taken a pair of near useless vintage Art Deco cuff links and sliced them in half. Check it out below:
                         This is what they will look like in a better condition. Tops stay centered. No flop.

Here is what they look like after you dissect the pieces. This is the top photo part cut in half to show its workings that are hidden from the world. Till now!

Obviously not the same cuff link. But it is the exact same style of closure. Piece 1 is the outside (turned upside down of course). Piece 2 is hidden inside the cuff link end itself. This piece has a slight upward bend and rubs against the fourth piece to keep the swivel in the upright closed position. Piece 3 is the cover or "bottom half" you see on the cuff link closure's under side. Piece 4 is the bottom piece of the cuff link shaft (cut off in this photo). This has an upside down letter T shape and is hidden inside the cuff link closure. It sits between pieces 2 and 3. The magic piece is number 2. Basically unreachable by the average man. What really happens is after years of use, piece number 2's "hump"  flattens down. This in turn allows the hinged back to flop left and right as the upside down "T" is not being pressed against. Didn't really mean to get so brutal on the cuff link end but, I had to see the guts and figure out why these sometimes will not stay in the closed position. If anyone has any suggestions or tips on repair, I would be grateful for any input. This was just a little "info quickie". Thanks for checking it out.

How To Wear A Vintage Collar Clip

"How To" brought to you by http://vintagecufflinks.ca

Today we will discuss a vintage item you will sometimes see and wonder what the heck they are and, how anyone would you ever use it.. It is the collar clip. Often, confusingly called a tie clip. Associated, but definitely not a tie clip. It is used to "lift" the tie up, and out, from the neck for a smarter retro look. Let's start by looking at the photo's below. This is a collar clip. Note the two ends with a solid center. These come in many styles and, variations of metals. Let's use one...

A collar clip is meant to be used with a dress shirt collar that is "closer together" than most. These can still be purchased today. The collars, and collar clips, were made famous by the Hollywood movie stars of the day. The collar clip is more versatile and would definitely be the preference of most men wishing to use this style of formal dress. Let's have a look at what is involved in wearing one. ---------------------------------------

 

The first step would be to put on your shirt and tie. I'm cheating a bit with a dress shirt and not so well tied tie. First step is to slide the clip over one collar just about an inch up or, at your preferred height.

Next we pull the tie up over the top of the clip. Leaving the body of the clip below the tie as shown below. A very simple process.

From this point, we will slip the other side of the collar clip onto the other collar.

That's it. Your tie will now "pop out" from your neck, giving you that classic vintage look while adding a bit of pizazz to your collar. So the next time someone asks you " What the heck is that"? you can say, "It's a collar clip". These are often mistakenly referred to as a tie clip. Many just look at it and wonder "How in hades does that thing go on a tie? Well, now you know. Read on for a couple of extra tips.

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Sometimes these clips are very tight and, it seems like your collar will just not go through. This can be the case with New Old Stock (NOS) that hasn't ever been used. The best way I have found to remedy this is to place a dime in the open space on each side of the collar clip and pry upwards or, downwards until the clip slides on more easily. You are just bending the metal clip outward a bit so it will not be as tight. Check out the photo below for a visual.

Just one last mention here before I move on. These absolutely do not have to be worn with ties. If you aren't going formal, then you can always just add the collar clip as another accessory to your wardrobe. In this case, try to find one that has a bit of flair to it rather than a straight bar. I'll show you my example below which actually looks quite nice. These items are truly versatile.

Well, that's another post I hope you find informative. Don't be worried about checking these vintage clips out as they are easy to use and, add that little something extra stylish to your men's (and women's) wear. These collar clips are also still made today. Check them out next time you get a chance to wear one. See you again soon and, don't forget to check out my online cuff link shop below. Thanks everybody,  Rob 

Antique Cuff Link Terminology

"How To" brought to you by http://vintagecufflinks.ca

Today I will discuss antique cuff link terminology. When purchasing cuff links, the description should include the type of closure that the cuff link employs. I will give a brief description, and photo, of each closure to help you better identify just what to expect prior to purchase. Please feel free to add any comments and, I will include them in this post. Please realize that some of these styles continued on into later years but, you will see some differences (with the exception of the chain link style). My next post will be on vintage to now cuff link closures. So, stay tuned for another post in this category.

Let's begin by looking at common terms you will see when searching for antique cuff links.

1- Fixed Button Back Cuff Links

                   

Fixed button back cuff links are not actually buttons at all. But they do look like a button. This type of cufflink does not have a closure of any kind. It is one solid piece where the back slips through the button holes, thus securing the cuff links.

 

2. Pivot Button Back Cuff Links.

This type of cuff link is exactly the same as the previous one. They look exactly the same with a back looking similar to a button. There is a difference though. The back has a small hinge type mechanism that allows the back to flip up as shown in photo above. This aids in slipping the cuff link end through the button hole. After inserted, you flip it back down to secure it. Exactly the same as the fixed, except this style has hinge.

 

3. Fixed Shaft or Solid Shaft Cuff Links.

This term refers to the cufflink as being one solid piece. Each end is permanently attached and, will not move.

 

4. Clip or Clip Back Cuff Links.

These style of cuff links will have two to four clips on the back. The clips are on a hinged mechanism. Shown on the left are just two of the many styles and, are in the closed position. Shown on the right, the cufflink is in the open position and ready to insert into the button hole. After insertion, close the clips (as on the left)  to secure. You will often find these in only one instead of a set. In this case, they are often misidentified and labeled as "lapel" or, "collar clips". This is one of my most favorite antique styles as the cuff link has a strong closure. You never seem lose them off your cuff. If you can find them, and like the look, definitely buy them. Most have the date of manufacture on the back. Mostly found in the late 1800's.

 

5. Ball Back Cuff Links.

 As the name suggest, the ends will be rounded like a ball. They are commonly found on  style #3 above and, do not move.

 

6. Bean Back And Football Back Cuff Links.

Named only for their shape. One supposedly resembles a coffee bean and, one supposedly resembles a football. These type of antique cuff link will always be fixed as in style #3 description above. These cuff links have no moving parts.

 

7. Chain Link Cuff Links.

As the name suggests, each end is connected by a small chain. These older antique cufflinks generally had a thicker chain. As long as there has been chin, there has been chain link cuff links. 

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I  hope you have picked up a little information for your next antique cuff link shopping adventure. The joy of finding these small pieces of history is exciting. So many different, unique, and interesting designs can be found. You will probably be the only one in town with the same pair of cuff links. That is part of the charm of owning antique cuff links. I haven't even touched on material or, maker's marks. But, you should be able to look at a cuff link (and it's back), and make a decision on weather it is antique or not. Hope this helps someone out. Stop by again...Rob.

 

                           









Is My Shell Cameo Antique?

Today I will discuss a few simple ways to judge if your shell Cameo is real or, a close second. Please forgive the letter spacing as the blog has gone a little wonky on me.  Let's start with a cameo I have in the shop and take a look at what you should look for when buying an antique shell cameo....

     Lets begin by looking at the back of the cameo. In the first photo above, you will find a smooth surface. It isn't uncommon to see scuffs or fine cracks from age and use. Don't run from the cameo if you find them, they are normal and should not worry you too much. Deep cracks will lower value. The cameo back should feel smooth and have a bit of a glass like shine. Most shell cameos are in ranges of pink (or blue). Not all, but the majority. So far, all looks well. What you do not want to see are small pits or pinholes all over the back. Another thing you do not want is a milky color or, melted look. These generally do not indicate an antique piece and you should probably keep searching.The next thing you should see is a concave back. This means the Cameo's shell should be indented. Imagine the indented bowl of a teaspoon and you will exactly get it. If it is a little hard to tell, as in this photo above, feel it. As your fingers run along the face they will feel the indent. The outside of shells are not flat. Neither should your Cameo be flat. Hold the Cameo up to the light. It will be translucent. You should be able to see the opposite side of the cameo just slightly, as if looking through a haze.

     The third thing you want to do, and I caution you on the danger, is to heat test your piece. Now if you are going to spend money on an expensive antique Cameo, make sure whoever you are buying this from (other than a reputable jeweler) is willing to do this for you. It does not hurt the piece. It doesn't damage the piece in any way. Unless, it's fake. There is no reason I can think of where a person would not heat test the Cameo for your piece of mind. Below, is the implements that I used to heat test this particular piece. You can do this as well, it isn't hard. For this you can use any small metal sewing needle, piece of wire, anything small metal and pointy. For this photo, I chose an old brooch that was beyond help. I am using a clamping item available at any hardware store in the fishing aisle. They are used to pull hooks out of a fish but, they are useful for jewelry if you want to change bails or jump rings. This pair locks shut so there is no chance the pin will come out and burn you. Stuck? Use a set of locking vice grips. Whatever you do, make sure your holders lock. The pin will be very hot. Too hot to touch. You don't want to slip up and get a nasty burn. So, don't just use a set of regular pliers. Any item you use should lock. O.K., enough safety blah-blah-blah.

 

 

  Unlike me, you should now lay your Came upside down on a towel or, other soft item. The next thing we need to do is to get that pin hot! Use a lighter, use a torch, use your stove (watch your sleeves) anything at your disposal. Once you have your pin hot, lightly place it on the Cameo in a prearranged inconspicuous spot. If it creates a hole, you don't want it to be the first thing you see if you intend to keep the fake. I prefer to test the lower portion. As the pin is hot, you will not need a lot of pressure. Hold on to the count of three. Remove the testing items and set them down on a heat friendly surface like the metal on your stove top. If your Cameo is a genuine shell, no harm will have been done. What you don't want to see is a hole left by the pin. This means the piece has melted and is not a true antique or vintage shell Cameo. Sorry....

  Now lets take a look at the front. Here we see a lovely young confident lady. Lets take a closer look at her details. The details you should look for. Turn the Cameo on its side. The white on the front of the cameo should just graze the surface. You don't want to see a large lump of excessive white. Though not shown, between the nose and hair you can see the shell and a thin coating of white. Make sure you check all angles because the white can appear to be large face on but, on closer inspection it is not. The next thing we will check on this lady is her hair. Notice how the hair is upswept. Most antique Cameos have this feature as opposed to hair hanging down which is more of a vintage Cameo trait. We next want to look at that cute little nose. It should be Romanesque. This was the style most adopted for antique Cameos. Another common feature of an antique shell Cameo is the attention to detail. Crisp, distinguishable lines as seen here in her hair, mouth, eyes, and chin. Flowers are another great sign. They were often used to adorn hair and clothing in a Cameo of the era. Cameos of this age can face either right or left. Right facing Cameos being the most common. This one was possibly made by a "southpaw".

 

Again, on the bottom we see lots of attention to detail. The dress neckline has nicely carved lines and is adorned on the left with a spray of leaves and flowers.

    Just one more part on the front to focus on. The edges of the shell Cameo. How did they create these miniature works of art? Well, they were carved by craftsmen. And, that is exactly what you want to see. Check the edges for cuts or "whittle" in the shell as shown under the prong in the picture below. Look a little further up and you can see the edges are not perfect. They have been expertly whittled down to create the masterpiece from a single shell.

     In the end, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Real, not real, shell, stone, coral, everyone has their own idea of what they want in a vintage or antique Cameo piece. Real antique cameos are not an everyday wear.  You should consider buying a vintage, rather than antique, Cameo piece for those non formal occasions. But the beauty of a true antique cameo is a thing to behold. Either way, here are the end things you should know about your antique shell Cameo. The settings. They came in a surprising number of materials including silver (like ours), gold (but not white gold), and brass. Brass was a surprise to me but I have seen garnets more than enough times set in brass.  At any rate, I hope you enjoyed this post and if you have any suggestions or you feel I should correct something, just post a comment and I will get right to it. I am not an expert or jeweler but,  I hope this has helped in your Antique Cameo quest. 

Please note that there are very nice fakes out there that will pass the heat test. Please take all things into account when choosing your Cameo. If in doubt, consult a vintage jeweler specialist.

 

My personal antique Cameo checklist:

 1. Cameo must have a concave back.                                                                                   

 2. Cameo does not have a lot of small pit marks.                                                                 

 3. Cameo does not have a white, milky, or foamy looking back.                                         

  4. Cameo has very sharp, distinct, carving.                                                                           

  5. Cameo has ornate flowers and other adornments.                                                             

   6. Cameo has upswept hair (not hair that hangs down which indicates a vintage Cameo).   

  7. Cameo has an older style setting with patina-unless cleaned.                                           

 8. Cameo's white parts are low to shell and blend into the carving.                                     

 9. Cameo has carving marks on, and around, the edges.                                                      

10. Cameo's nose is not "rounded".                                                                                      

 11. Cameo should be translucent when held to the light.                                                                                                                                          

 

      

AUTHOR: Rob Marshall           

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How To Put On Button Covers. The Cuff Link Alternative.

"How To" 

Lets give a quick rundown on the best way to dress up that non French Cuff shirt. You would just love to wear cuff links but, between the price point of a French Cuff shirt and the added expense of cuff links, what's a guy or gal to do? Welcome to the world of the "button cover". Button covers are generally less expensive and, can be just as handsome as any cuff link on the market. Just for today, we are going to wave goodbye to the cuff link and say hello to an old standard even your kids can operate. The "Button Cover".

Let's take a quick look at these amazing little pieces of wrist candy called...

                                                           THE BUTTON COVER
                                                        

 

     Button covers come in an array of shapes and sizes. They aren't all round and, come in as many interesting styles as a regular cuff link would. One thing does remain the same though, the attachment. No matter what size or shape they take on, the back will always be the same.

                                                   THE BUTTON COVER BACK

 

     Here we have the back of a button cover (they come in sets but, we will just look at one). The user friendly piece is that odd shaped metal on the back. This is the part that will slip under your button. Let's drop down a photo and see the "guts" and, how the mechanism works.

                               

                                                       OPEN BUTTON COVER

     Here is the button cover ready to be used. It is in the open position. To open these is quite a simple task. Just pull on that odd shaped piece of metal. It is hinged and, only held in by clips that nestle against the inner wall of the button cover. So easy, that even a child could do it. What you now have is an open and ready to wear inexpensive pseudo cuff link. Let's put it on.

                                             
                                                     INSERT THE BUTTON COVER

 

     The first thing we want to do is slide that odd looking metal piece "under" your button as shown above. It slips in very comfortably with no resistance. These are a dream for any man, or women, in a rush to get out and get going. Such a quick little invention. The best part is they will work on any shirt with a button. You can even use them to dress up your top neck button. Great stuff. Now let's take a look at what happens next....

                                                 SEAT AND CLOSE BUTTON COVER

     Here we have pushed the button cover all the way under the button. As mentioned earlier, it is amazingly easy to do. Our next step is to just close the cover (top). That's it! Ten thousand times easier than struggling with cuff link holes. They can be worn on anything that has a button. Let's take a look at how this all turned out. No different than any cuff link and, at a fraction of the cost.

                                                        THE COMPLETED LOOK

     A very smart and easy look to employ. Button covers are extremely comfortable as well as secure. For those with metal allergies, the great part is that no metal touches your skin. Kids love them, adults love them, it's a "win win". Fantastic for anyone in a rush. What?! No French Cuff? No problem! 

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